The made in Italy man rules
Read curiosities about suits and sartorial shirts:
Meaning of SUPER
The “Super” is a fabric which declares it is pure virgine wool. The numbers subsequent to “Super”, for example 180, indicate the fineness of the wool in the traditional system of British wool. The higher the number, the more finer the wool used. The classification has recently been codified by the Superfine Wool Council and the CCMI (Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute) shall ensure compliance and proper use.
Fabric to wear in all four seasons. Ideal for the man who lives in the office daily, with special attention to the taste and refinement.
Fabric that is compact to the touch as the warp and woof of which it consists, silky and shiny-looking, features that reveal the human needs of class.
A winter fabric, constructed with 4 twisted yarns, the perfect link between English taste and Italian style.
Finer than Cashmere. Carded yarn for jackets in pure virgin wool ideal for use in sport jackets to match with flannel or combed cotton trousers in winter.
Lightweight fabric for suits, 230 grams per meter, from the impalpable hand for the elegance that does no go unnoticed.
The ultimate luxury is have a fabric that is made to measure, the object of desire, all to be customisable, so the style is still a matter of taste, indisputably different from man to man. A play of colours and motifs to be dialed, in order to wear a suit exclusively granted to a few. You can also customise the selvedge edge of the fabric with the client’s name, that of the tailor and that of the woolen mill Fintes.
Bon Ton lessons: Tuxedo, Tailcoat or Tight?
From the “gentlemen” who have made the history, the advices on what suits is appropriate to wear in different occasions.
Tuxedo: incredibly elegant, is advised for all the formal occasions after 6 o’clock p.m.! It is made of a black single-breasted jacket with an unique button, silk lapel and sleeves with with four silk buttons, but, without slits or pockets; drainpipe trousers; white shirt with long sleeves with cuffs closed with wonderful cufflinks; a very low-necked vest which disappears under the jacket showing the shirt; in alternative to the vest, you can choose a sash, (plissè waist band); long black silk socks; black Oxford shoes made of smooth leather; unavoidable and super fashionable, the black bow tie in silk or satin. Curiosity: the term “smoking” comes from “smoking jacket”, the jacket that long time ago was used by the gentlemen in the smoking rooms.
Tailcoat: perfect for important occasions…a Nobel price ceremony or State banquets! It is made by a swallowtail double breasted jacket with silk cuffs, short and tight, so it hasn’t the need to be buttoned up; black trousers; white piquet vest; white shirt with cufflinks; white bow tie (not black as the smoking one); black and smooth Oxford shoes; long black silk socks; a further hazard would be the choice of particular accessories like a white silk or cashmere scarf, white gloves, a pocket watch, a top hat and a white silk handkerchief. Curiosity: Can you imagine that long time ago the tailcoat was worn by the men in the countryside!
Tight: perfect for daily occasions, above all for weddings when the bride wears the white wedding gown with the long veil; furthermore according to the tradition, if the groom wears the tight, the male blood relatives have to wear it too. Black or deep grey jacket with an unique button, short in the front, shaped and with two long rounded tails which arrive on the calf muscles; grey trousers; grey vest; white shirt; “a plastron” tie whit a pin or pearl; black or grey socks; black and smooth Oxford shoes.
Each suit, especially if new, must be worn in a particular way. It has the need to rest periodically, so you must alternate it with other garments. The suit should not be worn for more than three or four consecutive days and, if it is light for no more than a couple of days.Wool is a living fiber that becomes “tired” with the use: rest is the best remedy against wrinkles. At night, when you remove your suit, remember to support the jacket on a hanger so that it won’t become deformed, the trousers should rather be hung from the bottom with clips. If possible, let your suits stand in the open air: it is good for the fibers of the fabric and will remove wrinkles. Before storing garments do not forget to leave out in the open air at least a day and brush the fabric in the direction of the grain. If garments are likely to remain long in wardrobes for example for the seasonal rotation, they will remain best if stored in a carrying bag.
It is a delicate operation, carried out with special care, keeping in mind that the iron, even though steam, should never be in direct contact with the fabric. A clean, damp cloth, should be placed between the iron and cloth; ironing to the edge patiently, until the material is completely dry both the cloth and the fabric. It is advisable not to insist onto the most resistant wrinkles; better pass by a second time. Each type of fabric has different types of ironing temperatures and techniques. Here are the suggestions: Shaved and milled fabric for garments: bring the iron to a medium temperature, keeping the cloth humid, with strong and prolonged pressure especially on trousers. Light wool fabrics: the iron at medium temperature, the cloth should be moderately wet, prolonged ironing with little pressure. Summer fabrics: the iron should not be too hot, the cloth should be mildly humid, applying strong pressure, prolonged ironing. It is not recommended to wear the garments as soon as they have been ironed, rather allow the garment to rest for one day before wearing. Never use the iron to dry your wet garments from the rain or from any type of spray of water. Place a thick cloth beneath the lapels or flaps during ironing will help to prevent iron shots, leaving the imprint of ironing.
When your garments are stained or are dirty, the best solution is to take them to a professional dry cleaner. However there are some effective tricks to remove stains. Grass: rub with a brush moistened with raw milk or pure alcohol, then wash with soap and water. Ink: use products that are suitable on the market, you can also dilute the stain with alcohol, taking care to put a paper under the fabric to absorb. Liquor: lukewarm water slightly soapy. Blood: wash in lukewarm water. Wine, Coffee, Fruit: if the stain is still fresh and humid, cover it with talc powder, allow it to absorb and dry then rub. If the stain is already dry, use lukewarm water with soap and ammonia. When you do this, you need to let the garment dry naturally, never use the iron or other heat source to accelerate the drying.
Care of the white shirt
It is better to wash the shirt with an hand-wash or in the washing machine with a delicate cycle and cold water. Do not squeeze the shirt and hang it to dry in the shadow (in the sun the white shirt turn yellow).
The perfect ironing: after the shirt have dried, put it in a closed bag and place it in the refrigerator for all night long. Take the shirt out only few minutes before the ironing, in this way the operation will be more easy, without the help of chemical products.
Whiten a shirt which have turned grey
Sprinkle the shirt with Castile soap and dunk it in hot water. Hang the shirt to dry in the sun for one hour and half. The action of the soap combined with the sun, will have the effect of a natural whitening.